Discovering Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands
I knew so little about Zimbabwe before heading there that I was both nervous and excited about discovering the country. Most travel narratives around Zimbabwe often revolve around Victoria falls, the hotspot for tourism here. Or the currency inflation challenges that the country continues to face. But there is so much more to Zimbabwe. I wanted to dig a little deeper.
I had vaguely heard about the Eastern Highlands along the Zimbabwe-Mozambique border, and it got me intrigued. My couchsurfing host in Harare was raving about the Highlands as well. After spending a few days around Victoria Falls and Zambezi National Park, I got back to Harare to explore the highlands. Roughly 4 hrs northeast of Harare lies the dusty hill town of Mutare, gateway to the highlands, and a popular border crossing into Mozambique, or Moz, as locals say. The only backpackers’ place in town, Anne Bruce’s backpackers, was open, but hadn’t see a traveler pass by in a year. I made her place my base for a few days, and explored the region – using a mix of public transport and hitch-hiking.
Mutarazi falls – second highest waterfall in Africa
Victoria Falls steals all the thunder in Zimbabwe when it comes to waterfalls and all for good reason.. However, Mutarazi falls make up for what it lacks in the grandeur by it’s low-key remoteness. Getting to the waterfalls was itself quite the adventure. Couple of hours on a rough potholed mud road at the back of a barebones truck wasn’t exactly my idea of getting there, but that’s how it turned out.
There are two main falls, both falling off a sheer cliff into Honda valley, one of the last remaining functional tea growing regions in the country. A well-laid mile long trail leads you to a few different viewpoints. Although you can visit the falls on a day trip from Mutare, I highly recommend staying a night in the sole guest house inside the park. There is plenty to do here – nature trails, birding, photographing the beautiful falls – and if you are feeling for some adventure, try the zipline offered at the guest house.
Bvumba National Park
In close proximity to Mutare lies the stunning Bvumba National Park – surrounded by beautiful rolling hills in every direction, home to a few dilapidated colonial-era houses, and now defunct tea estates. The landscape here reminded me of the tea-growing Nilgiri region in Southern India. Ask for a local guide at Anne Bruce’s guest house for a day trip to Bvumba – beautiful mountain air and impeccable 360 views await you.
If you are still not convinced about visiting this beautiful part of Africa, I will leave you with a few more scenes from my time walking and hiking in the highlands.
- Wading through Oman’s incredible wadis - January 1, 2022
- 21 moments of gratitude from 21 countries I visited in 2021 - December 29, 2021
- Visit El Salvador for its sparkling lakes - July 3, 2021
- Where is Fogo Island, again? - April 11, 2021
- Discovering Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands - April 2, 2021