The enchanting Accursed mountains of Albania
Albania had always been this enigmatic place for me – offering a tiny opening into the bygone Soviet era, and a slice of Mediterranean paradise. A place I never quite understood – but I was eager to find out. Albania had been pretty much cut-off from the rest of the world until the end of Enver Hoxha’s communist regime in the late 80’s. The isolationist policies under his regime had made Albania one of the least accessible countries in Europe. However, under the new rule after Enver’s demise, reforms kicked in and the country started to warm up to rest of Europe in the 90s. Albania slowly opened up to tourism and is now a regular fixture on the Balkan trail for many travelers.
Albania had been pretty much cut-off from the rest of the world until the end of Enver Hoxha’s communist regime in the late 80’s
Enamored by the Accursed mountains
I would have never associated Albania with some of the most beautiful mountains in Europe – towering limestone jutting straight out of the pristine river valleys, and perhaps the last remaining wild mountain range in Europe. Beauty is never lacking in Albania, but Valbona National Park in the North, bordering Montenegro and Kosovo, tugs at your heart strings with some jaw-dropping mountain scenery. Connected by miles of hiking trails through the Accursed mountains, Valbona gives you a glimpse into rural Albania. They say that the mountains got their appellation from the fact that the locals believed the mountains to be impassable because of the sheer altitude, and consistently hostile weather. Valbona village is where the road inside the park ends, and it is also a good base to explore the park from – there are all kinds of accommodation options – from river-side cabins to secluded home stays.
Hiking inside Valbona National Park
One of the most popular day hikes in the park is the hike from Valbona to Theth, a 6-8 hrs. moderately difficult hike across the Valbona pass. You will pass through some beautiful farmlands, a handful of home stays, over and across a rocky river bed, and up some serious incline. There are a couple of rest stops along the way, as well as a camping site if you want to break your journey.
A hike to Çerem village is another great option to stretch your legs and see some local life in the mountains.
How to get to Valbona National Park?
Bajram Curri is the nearest town near the park and it is connected by buses from most major cities If you are able to high your own car, I recommend driving into the park – the drive from Shkoder to Valbona is stunning and there are some great photo opportunities along the way.
Depending on the route you are taking, I suggest taking the Koman-Fierze car ferry to get in or out of the park – it is definitely one of the highlights of Northern Albania, and the best river trip in all of Europe – there, I said it! The ferry connects two small ports of Koman and Fierze over Lake Komani built over a dammed river, and takes about 3 hours. This started as a passenger ferry to connect the communities living along the lake, but now tourists use this alongside the locals. Due to the increased demand, many new operators have cropped up. Ferry Berisha provides good service and you can book your ticket online or over WhatsApp.
The park is changing fast with rapid infrastructure development, and increasing number of local and foreign tourists coming in. I am hoping this turns out to be a successful sustainable tourism development story, and not one of neglect and mindless tourism.
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