Often known as the birth place of Christianity, Ethiopia has some of the highest concentration of ancient churches. While the monolithic churches of Lalibela have gained mainstream fame and UNESCO protection, there are more than a hundred incredible lesser known rock-hewn churches in the craggy cliffs of Tigray – all at an altitude between 2,000 to 3000 meters. Most of these churches are still active, hold morning masses, and are incredibly difficult to reach. With many of these churches connected through back-country trails, it is easy to arrange multi-day hikes in Tigray.

The hike to Abuna Yemata is a great day trip from Axum or Mekkele

Abuna Yemata is one of the more famous churches on the Tigray trail. You can approach it either from Axum on a long 4 hour drive or from Mekkele on a more reasonable day-trip. Its location on a towering cliff makes it all the more enticing – although with the need for some free climbing involves 500 ft+ drops, you do need calm nerves. The locals still visit the church for baptizing their children and for funeral rituals.

Impeccable frescos in Abuna Yemata

The dry desert air has helped preserve some incredible frescoes dating all the way back to the 5th century – perhaps some of the best I have seen outside Serbia and Georgia. The scenes depicted date back to the origins of Christianity and you can clearly see the nine saints and twelve apostles.

As is the the case with a lot of places in Ethiopia, you would likely be asked by the priest for some money in return for a few photographs inside the church. Its alright to navigate the route with a guide, especially if you are comfortable climbing using hand and foot holds. If not, there are local villagers who always hang out by the precarious sections and are quite keen to help you navigate the footholds – hoping to make some quick money. It’s a strenuous climb, especially under a hot sun – so carry a lot of water, some cash for the priest and the helpers, and you should have a good time exploring what is likely one of the most inaccessible churches anywhere in the world.

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About Praveen Maloo

Praveen is currently based out of Seattle, United States. He loves coffee, conversations, micro-brews, and intimate jazz music scenes. When its not raining in Seattle, he can be seen enjoying the beautiful outdoors of the Pacific North-West.

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